The rack I recommend will be ideal in most situations, unless you have a weird obsession with climbing off-widths or something — in which case, there's nothing I can do to help you! If you plan on turning up at the crag with this gear, I think you will be able to adequately protect most routes, as long as nothing too specialised is required!
I've climbed E2 on this rack, plus a couple of smaller cams. Also consider the diameter of the ropes you will be using, and make sure your belay device is suitable. D-Shaped karabiners go on the gear, whilst HMS karabiners allow you to attach yourself to the gear using clove hitches. Nut Key You want to try and avoid leaving your shiny brand new nuts behind if your partner gets them stuck in a crack — you will normally be able to extract them using a nut key.
Much debate occurs over 5mm vs 6mm cord — I use one of each and rack them together on a screw gate karabiner, such as a DMM Shadow. The cord should be used to create a loop, tying the ends together with a Double Fisherman's. Can be used to abseil off a route, clip into somebody's belay, or in self rescue situations. I recommend DMM 8mm Dyneema slings, as they're nice and thin and lightweight. I don't like big bulky slings cluttering up my harness!
I carry these slings around my chest with a DMM Phantom clipped to each of them. Remember, certain things might not get taken on every route — I wouldn't ever take hexes on a route with small cracks, for example, or 14 quickdraws on a 10m route at Stanage! It takes experience to be able to adjust your rack depending on the route. Gain as much information of the route from the floor by looking at it and deciding what you might need. On a short gritstone route, I might not bother with the Offsets, whereas on a 40m pitch in North Wales, I would!
Whilst you're deciding what to carry, it's always better to play it safe and take more, than to risk it and not have enough gear to adequately protect yourself. I always try to think about what gear I didn't use on a route, and then decide if I can just leave it on the ground next time.
However, I do appreciate not everyone wants to spend a fortune on their rack initially. Designed for wide cracks, these have two telescoping tubes that expand after releasing a trigger to push against opposite sides of the crack; a ring is screwed down to secure the piece.
During a fall, one side of the unit is weighted, which levers the other side up into the rock, creating a basic camming action that wedges it in place. These wedges of aluminum, designed for smaller cracks, rely on a constriction in the crack to create a mechanical barrier that keeps the piece in the rock. You can place them a few ways broad side out, sideways, etc. These are larger pro made of hollow blocks of aluminum that are good for medium to wide cracks.
They were necessary for many routes before cams were invented, but now many climbers prefer cams for such placements. However, hexes are lighter, cheaper, and more secure in wet or icy cracks. Although these are technically passive pro because they have no moving parts, the sharp point on one side and the opposite gently curved side cam against the rock to make them effective in parallel-sided cracks and flaring pods.
I fundamentally changed the way I build anchors after 28 years of climbing. They were safe before, but now they are faster, flexible, and safe. While every climber wants to be a unique butterfly, most of our gear looks exactly the same. Borrowing gear is necessary in places like Indian Creek, where you will need several of the same size to complete a climb, and marking it will help you quickly gather your gear when there are eight No.
However, rappels can be made safer by adding a Prusik to your rack. This article is intended to provide guidelines, but the outlined information is not set in stone.
Preferences and rock styles vary, but these general recommendations should be suitable to aid your purchasing decisions. As always, climbing is an incredibly dangerous activity. This article serves as a tool , but the best way to truly learn is under the guidance of an expert.
Breathing, moving, and climbing rocks. Van-dwelling co-founder Moja Gear. Find my beginner-friendly climbing eBook by clicking the globe below. Last update: September 16, Example first trad climbing rack 1 set of cams, covering. Deal alert: Trad packages offer discounts over buying cams individually.
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